Gnowangerup History

VIEW OF THE STIRLING RANGES

More than 1500 species of flowering plants exist in the Stirling Ranges, representing almost 40 percent of the known flora of the south west. Approximately 80 species grow nowhere else in the world. Mt Trio is known for its bright red mountain bell, Darwinia lejostyla.
Popular recreational activities in the park include bushwalking, abseiling and gliding. Camping is permitted only in Moingup campsite within the park boundaries (fee applies). Other peaks which have tracks include Mt Trio, Talyuberlup Peak and Mt Magog. A premier walk known as The Stirling Ridge Walk is usually done over two days and includes Ellen Peak (the most easterly peak) and Bluff Knoll.
Notable features include Toolbrunup, Bluff Knoll – the tallest peak in the southwestern region – and a silhouette called The Sleeping Princess which is visible from the Porongurup Range.

"THE SLEEPING PRINCESS" AS SEEN FROM THE PORONGURUP RANGES #1

EARLY HISTORY
The traditional owners are the Mineng and Koreng groups of the Noongar peoples who have inhabited the region for tens of thousands of years. The Noongar know the range as Koi Kyenunu-ruff which means mist moving around the mountains. The area was important to Indigenous Australians with the surrounding lowlands providing many sources of food. The women gathered seeds, roots and fruit while men hunted kangaroos and other animals.
The first European to sight the range was Matthew Flinders in January 1802 while he was exploring the southern coast of Australia. He named the range Mount Rugged.
Ensign Dale explored the area in 1832 and climbed Toolbrunup.
Stirling Range was named by the surveyor John Septimus Roe in 1835 after the Governor of the Swan River Colony, James Stirling, even though Stirling never actually visited the area.
Sandalwood cutters established a track through the park in about 1848. European settlers arrived in the late 1800s initially around Amelup and farmed much of the surrounding areas. John Forrest climbed Toolbrunup in 1881 with Henry Samuel Ranford and made a cairn at the summit.
The boundaries of the park were first suggested by Jas Hope, the Chief Draftsperson of the Lands and Survey Department, in 1908 and approved by N. J. Moore who was the Minister of Lands at the time.
The National Park was gazetted in 1913 and the first park ranger was appointed in 1964.
The park was listed as a National Heritage place in 2006.
In 2020, a bushfire caused by lightning devastated 40,000 hectares of park land.
In August 2022, there was a lot of snow in the park.

HISTORY
by Merle Bignell

"The Fruit of the Country' published 1977

"In 1921 Western Australia’s first Tourist Bureau had been formed in Perth, under the management of S.Hayward. On 21 April 1927 an article appeared in the Albany Despatch pointing out the enormous tourist potential of the Stirling Range, ‘those mountains of mystery’.
He claimed that the number that had scaled the Knoll and Ellen Peak could be counted on the fingers of one’s hands although more climbers had attempted Toolbrunup as it was more accessible from the Pass.

This article brought a swift response from Borden residents and one writing under the nom de plume of Isongerup stated “I have been up Ellen’s Peak five times and on every occasion with a mixed party, and I’ve been up Bluff Knoll four times and three of these trips were made by mixed parties, with the ladies as old as 40 to 50 years”.
The writer concluded by suggesting that representatives of the neighboring Road Boards, government bodies and Hayward meet in the Spring at the foot of Bluff Knoll to open the Ranges officially to the increasing tourist public.
Other correspondents suggested that a chalet or hostel be built nearby, possibly at Moingup Spring, to accommodate visitors interested in climbing the various peaks.
As a result of these letters a group of Salt River settlers formed a working committee to cut a track from the pass to the foot of Bluff Knoll. Colly Moir dragged a log behind his Case tractor from the Pass, along the ridges to as close to the Knoll as possible and then returned along the same path. Meanwhile the working party (Alf Tilly, the Milnes, Murrays, Wellstead and Moirs) followed with axes clearing away the debris.
In the end the picnic to declare the National Park open as a tourist resort was an exhilarating success. 65 cars and trucks bought 300 sightseers to the foot of the Knoll, and A. McCallum, Minister for Works, performed the opening.
But it was to be many years before the range received anything like the government attention that those present considered it warranted. While keen travelers, occasional hikers or climbers and fascinated locals extolled the virtues of the Range, the government remained silent and inert.
Not until October 1963 did the National Parks Board appoint a ranger. This was farmer Alan Spratt of Tenterden who was chosen from 42 applicants. For 52 years he had lived in the vicinity and as a boy spent many happy days riding through the hills on a pony that had been one of the Stirling brumbies. He was supplied with a vehicle and a caravan and instructed to camp in the Stirling’s
He chose to make his headquarters at the Bluff Knoll turn off from Chester Pass Road, in the shade of some magnificent red gums.
Soon picnic facilities, a large concrete tank and the sealing of the Bluff Knoll road would complete it; and within 18 months and assistant Ranger N. Walmsley was appointed and located at Moingup Spring.
However, it was not until 1974 at any form of tourist accommodation was provided near the Knoll. This was the Stirling Range Caravan Park, designed by the Sounnes family on their nearby property, 'The Paper Collar Grazing Company".

VIEW OF THE STIRLING RANGES SHOWING THE VAROUS PEAKS #1

VIEW OF THE STIRLING RANGES SHOWING THE VAROUS PEAKS #2

VIEW OF THE STIRLING RANGES SHOWING THE VAROUS PEAKS #3

BLUFF KNOLL
Bluff Knoll is the most popular trail in the Stirling Range NP. Starting from the southern end of the Bluff Knoll car park the trail drops down to a creek, before taking you across a mountain saddle with amazing views over the ridge to the south coast.
From here the trail turns left and follows the ridge all the way to the summit, where you will be rewarded with stunning 360 degree views over the surrounding countryside.
The lower slopes are covered with eucalypt, banksia and grass trees. Over 1000 species of flowering plants thrive within the park including Mountain Bells and the Queen of Sheba Orchid.
It is often much colder and windier at the summit and conditions can change rapidly, so check the weather forecast and go prepared with a warm jacket.
Sunrise and sunset hikes are very popular and if you are lucky you may witness the amazing cloud waterfall that is common in these ranges.

MOUNT TRIO
Mount Trio comprises three peaks and was once known by its Aboriginal name Warrungup, meaning "three become". The trail ascends steeply from the parking area via many steps to a saddle between the east peak and the north peak. The track then follows a more gentle slope to the highest (northern) point at 856 metres. There are excellent views from the top when the weather is clear.

FAUNA

The park has been identified by BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area (IBA) because it supports populations of endangered short-billed black cockatoos and western whipbirds, and is visited by endangered long-billed black-cockatoos.
Many native mammals are found in the park including the western pygmy possum and the western grey kangaroo.
Deeper shaded gullies support a range ancient species including land snails, trapdoor spiders and giant earthworms that date back over millions of years.